Issue No. 14 · Autumn Tasting
A quiet dining room above the river, seven courses a night, and a single table that changes shape with the season. Chef Boonsri's cooking is unhurried, built on Northern Thai technique and the few ingredients she trusts that week.
Photography — Chanon P.
A cool, sharp opener — mango cured overnight in rice vinegar, prawn blanched for eight seconds.
Braised four hours in cured galangal broth. Falls apart under the back of a spoon.
The one dessert on the menu. Unchanged since the room opened.
A kitchen run like a letter written by hand — nothing loud, nothing wasted, and the Northern Thai pantry finally given the room it deserves.
Bangkok Post · Dining Review, 2024
Reserve
Service begins at 6:30pm sharp. We seat in a single sitting — please arrive by 6:20 so nothing waits.